How to properly repair a wooden boat?

How to properly repair a wooden boat?

Restoring classic wooden boat is a task feasible for any person who has construction skills and is able to handle tools. Otherwise, repairing a wooden boat with your own hands will be difficult. It is better to seek professional help. But let’s try to figure out how to repair a wooden boat yourself and using improvised means.

After all, lovers of hunting and fishing, as well as avid tourists, perfectly understand how useful the boat can be. But just like any other thing, a long-time and often exploited ship, in the end, comes into disrepair. This, of course, is not a reason to part with it. It is better to try to fix it.

What do you need to repair?

For Restoring classic wooden boat first you need to stock up on everything you need.

To start repairing a wooden boat, you will need the following tools: chisel, hammer, rivets, screws, screws, rasp, sandpaper, and hacksaw. In addition, you need to collect and necessary materials for work: boards, plywood, wood sawdust (or wood flour), glue, mastic, putty, paint. Of course, depending on what kind of breakdown you need to eliminate, you may not need all of the listed items, and perhaps you will need to get something else.

Getting Started

Breakdowns during the repair of a wooden boat can be very different, and in each case you need your own way of repairing. Let’s look at the options.

How to repair the hull?

The prolonged contact of wood with water, eventually, leads to the destruction and decay of individual parts of the body. This cannot be completely prevented even by treatment with water-repellent agents.

Damaged areas do not always need to be changed; sometimes you can try to restore them. For these purposes, you will need mastic for wooden boats. The damaged area is cleaned of the destroyed and decayed wood, and then filled with mastic. To prevent the latter from flowing, it should be pressed, for example, with paper. And to increase the strength of the area to be repaired, wood chips are added to the mastic (wood flour can be used).

Processing a wooden boat with rubber bituminous mastic is a common and effective way to solve the problem of hull damage. By the way! The main property of rubber-bituminous mastics is high water resistance. It also perfectly protects the treated surfaces from corrosion and decay.

If the damage is extensive, you will have to resort to replacing the leaky area. To do this, remove the fastener and cut the part to be replaced. In its place put a new board, perfectly fitted in size, and fasten it to the frames with screws or rivets. For greater durability from the inside, the repaired area is strengthened with an additional wooden lining. To ensure air tightness, it is necessary to lay all the slots of the repaired wooden boat with strips of coarse calico, having impregnated them with glue, the

heads of the screws should be immersed in the skin, and the pits formed over them should be filled with glue and sawdust.

For gluing the details of the vessel, waterproof glues are best suited. They will provide a reliable waterproofing. Casein adhesives are much less resistant to water, so they are used to glue the internal parts of the shell. A good water resistance is possessed by an adhesive containing epoxy resins, so it is also widely used in the repair of wooden boats.

When repairing the casing from plywood in the body, cut out a rectangular hole and seal it with two overlays (one must exactly match the dimensions of the hole, the second (internal) – be somewhat larger).

After the completion of the restoration works, the renovated site is subjected to cosmetic repair.

If the frames are broken

In this situation, when repairing a wooden boat it is important to determine whether it is possible to fix the frames or it is easier to replace them with new ones. If repairs are still possible, then special patches are placed on the damaged area, covering it in sizes. Fastening is carried out with the help of rivets.

How to eliminate leakage?

Another common reason for Restoring classic wooden boat is the appearance of leaks. For this, it is first necessary to remove all the structures on it from the deck floor in order to prepare it for repair. If a leak has arisen in the wheelhouse, then it is necessary to remove all the angles, separate and clean the grooves. Only after this you can proceed to eliminate the breakdown.

Then, put a piece of canvas on top, nailed it with small nails to the coatings and attached to the sides. After that, the deck is primed and covered with paint. PS Repair of a wooden boat with your own hands is not at all complicated, as it may seem at first glance. But if you still doubt your abilities, do not hesitate to contact specialists. Give your boat another chance, and it will serve you more than one year!

Spring repair – putty for wooden boat

The spring sun has driven away the snow. The river flooded the banks after the flood. Now time is more valuable than money: only a few days remain before navigation begins.

Let’s check how the hull of the boat feels after the winter “hibernation” under the snow. Remove the sun-heated canvas. The air stagnant in the cabin wilts damp. Quickly open the doors, windows, hatches – all you can – and ventilate the room! The plan for the spring repair of the boat has long been drawn up. But, removing the room, wiping the deck and seats – the dust still seeped under the roof of the “house”, which was built over the boat in the fall; we sit in the cockpit and look through the list of cases again.

Well, if the team brought together experienced people – you can distribute responsibilities without thinking. After all, depending on how the work will be performed, it depends – whether the boat will serve reliably throughout the whole season or, within a week after the descent, starts to flow water;

whether the engine will start “half a turn” or in the middle of the summer it will have to be delivered to a repair shop.

What if the team consists of beginners? Well, then it’s better to consult with knowledgeable people before starting work. We offer some of these tips to readers’ attention.

Putties serve as a kind of leveling counterfeit for lacquer-colored coatings and, naturally, are selected depending on the conditions of service, the quality of the surface to be painted and the composition of the coating. You need to consider only those of them, which can be prepared and used by amateurs in painting and repairing wooden cases.

Putties consist of three main parts:

  • Binder (linseed oil, varnish, liquid oil and varnish paints);
  • Filler, or thickener (chalk, gypsum, cement, hydrated lime, quartz fine sand, feldspar, marshalite, marble flour, wood flour, cork flour and other powder minerals);
  • Pigment or dye (dry paint in the form of a powder).

Preparation of putty

The binder should not contain mechanical impurities (otherwise it will have to be filtered) or contain any solvents in its composition. You cannot mix a binder of different varieties. Only when this condition is observed, high quality of putty is guaranteed. Fillers and dyes must be shifted to grind tooth powder; they should also not contain any foreign impurities.

It is recommended to first mix all the dry ingredients together, and then adds the binder, prepared according to the recipe. Prepared shpaklevku expediently put in a polyethylene bag, where it can be used, squeezing, as from a tube. In polyethylene bags, putty can be stored for several months.

Polythene pouch for storing putty

When working, a spatula and a special scraper knife are used – a palette knife, which is grinded by small lumps of dry ingredients and mixed with putty on a baking tray. You can take a table knife with a wide round end instead of a palette knife or make a palette knife yourself from a piece of band saw (width 20-30 mm), sharpening it as much as possible from the front side.

New, from cleanly planed fresh boards, the surface before applying putty should be carefully inspected and prepared accordingly. It should be noted that:

  • The width of the “disruption” of the grooves of neighboring planks should not exceed 5 mm, and the joints 3 mm;
  • The caulk should be densely pushed into the depth of the groove by 2 mm;
  • The edges along the grooves should not have cracks extending to the middle of the board, chips or dents; Scrapes and dents should be slightly cleaned with a knife;
  • Resinous pockets (i.e., interlayer wood with outwardly spun resin) must be cut out; if the depth of the cutout is more than 5 mm, it must be sealed with a strip on drying oil with wooden nagel (see sketch), if up to 5 mm – fill with a cloth impregnated with linseed oil (otherwise the putty cracked and may fall off);
  • The entire surface must be crooked – it is best to use a glass cloth on a fabric base, having hooked it onto a bar and, as it works, tearing away the worn cloth.

Homemade chisel for removing old pain

Then the surface should be proolifit, preheating the linseed oil in bottles, lowered to the neck in hot water. Hot linseed oil has a lower viscosity and therefore penetrates well into the wood to a depth of 1-1.5 mm. Due to the emergence of layers of wood on the face of the plank the drying oil will absorb it in different ways; if after drying of drying oil on a glossy surface will be found a separate matte place, they must be proolifit a second time.